Shoe sewing machine



Oct. 12, 1943. GRAHAM I 2,331,318

SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed March 28, 1941 Patented Oct. 12, 1943 f n 1: a i o i v asnon snwmenmon'mni a ,I Guy Graham, Worcester, assignornto 1 iv United Shoe Machinery CorporatiomFlemingv ton, N. J;, a corporation of New Jersey Application March 28, 1941, sernu Naesaios V "z'olaimsy (Cl.112 52);[

- The present invention .relatesto shoe sewing machinesand more particularly to improvements in ;we1t and shoe guides for a sewing machine of theMcKaytype having arotaryqshoe supporting hormwhich machine isemployed for s'ewingthe into line withi'thatsurface of the-upper which is supported by the edge'of the insole, regardless of r the movements imparted totheshoe as the point of operation is transferred about the shoe. When sewed with the bead in accurate alignment with the surface of the upper, Tthe welt being curved to conform with theshape' of thelshoe, better re- -sults with the machine are obtained in the nnisheda'shoe than heretofore considered possible, in

thisclass of work. v Y, 1

- It. is common. practice 'tions of a shoe on a McKay type shoe sewing'machine, and thereafter to sew an outsole to the projecting" marginal portions of the welt, but if" an "attempt is made to direct a beaded storm welt into-theseam; the irregular shape of the welt caused by the bead frequently renders the sewing operation difllcult. In order to avoid difficulty in guidinga beaded storm welt into a' seam connecting an'insole and upper of a McKay type shoe, the welt frequently'is" sewn to an outsole cut to the proper shape separate from the shoe.

The welted outsole'is then attached to the overlasted upper and insole with a through-and through seam on the usualMcKay type machine. To insure accurate registry ot-the sides of the upper and thebead on the' welh-the welt and the outsole necessarily must have'thesame' curvatures' as the upper and insole; otherwise the bead ontherweltr-will not fill the 'entirelength of the crevice-formed by the bulging sides of the upper and the projectingmarg-inof the o'utsole toprovide a tight weather excluding seal and the benefitzof the bead on-the-welt as a protection to the througheand-through' seamuwill be lost.

: Another object of the present invention' therefora-is to provide a McKay type shoe sewing machine with welt and shoe. guiding. devices, acting in amanner more effective than usual; for this type ofmachine for; sewing a beadedstorm welt with the head on the welt in alignment with the tos'eWE a hatiwelt' strip Q having no? bead to the overlasted' marginal per-.-

side surfaces of the-shoe upper so that after sewing, the stitches will-be-sealed against the weather throughout the length of the seam. v Accordingly, the principal feature ofthe presnt invention resides a McKay type shoe sewations-andvtheunder sideof the welt edge guide I being spaced byan amount'substantiallyin excess of welt thickness to insure-proper location of the welt bead ons-the insole "supported edge of the upper. In the form illustrated','the' edge guide comprises a iroll and means] are provided for spacing'the roll vertically below-the presser foot at the proper positionrer l These and other features of the'invention con sist in certain novel constructions," combinations and arrangements of parts hereinafter described and claimed, the advantages ofwhich will readily be understoodby those skilled in'the artfrom the following description takeni-in connection with the accompanying drawingj in'Which Fig. 1 is a view front elevation 10f a portion of. a shoe sewing machine: illustrating the positio ns of the stitch forming devices of the machine and the:

work during sewing operations; ,Fig; 2 is *a sectional view taken at right angles tothe" seam line through the point .of operationof the stitch form? ing devices; Fig. 3"is'aplan view of thepresser -foot, we1t'-'guide-andiedge guide roll shown in Fig. 1; Fig. 4 is a detail view of the'welt, guide showing a section of the storm welt employed ardson No.- 1 ,412,42-3, of April -;1 1, 1922, and to Leveque: No. "13383778 of December 10," 1929.

-The'stitch forming and work: supporting devices of the illustrated machinelinclude a straight ho'ok needle 2,1a cast-off 4, a feed point 6, a rotatable :work'supporting hornc8 having a central opening l into which the needle dips and a presser foot [0, all operating in a manner more fully disclosed in the patents referred to. To sew a McKay or American welt shoe, a welt strip is directed into the seam, suitable guides I2 and I4 being connected to the presser foot and the presser foot having rotatably mounted upon it an edge guide roll l6 toassist in locating theshoeproperly with relation to the welt p The toe of a shoe sewn on the machine is illustrated in Figs. 2 and 5, in which an upper [8 drawn into lasted relationship with an insole is permanently secured by a seam of ti irough and-through stitches 22 passingthrough oneedge' of the welt indicated at 2T. and the overlastedf tion of the squeezing force applied to the bead being taken up by a portion of the lower surface of the presser foot overlying the horn opposite the point of needle operations. The presser foot is constructed and located to act opposite the work supporting surface of the horn and to press the bead on the welt firmly against the shoe without. undesirably. fiatteningyor distorting the bead. Asin the patented machines the presser foot is raised slightly from engagement with the work during each work feeding movement so that the force exerted by the roll on the bead is somewhat reiievedidiiring feeding movements as a result of a.slight lateral sliding movement of the welt in upper and insole. The usuafpracticeinlsewing shoes of this construction is to insert the seam closer to the side surface of the upper whi'ch'is supported by the edge of the insole alongecertain parts of the shoe than at others. This practice is aaedmpert t'o thenec'essity for tipping the shoe atmi abdut the point of' 'sewing operations along-certain 'partSfof the se a'm'; particularly around the tee" of a shoe there is insure eient space within the uppemor fnll entrance or tne mrk supportmg norm cldse tothe edge of the 111501653 x 'mie-illtistratd strip I4 is comniorilyknowmas sm wemsnd lis assembled 'fi-om'two separate parts; one otrwnlen it -f'olde'd witl'i relation tome Grimm-perpendicular 'weatlienexcludiiig mll m'ojecting "at a central-location 'f'rorn one sme ot tnestrips when the welt strip is 'sewed to tl ll lastd shoe withtliehe'addn accurate alignment 'alori'g tlie insole portion-at the outer surtaee' of the upper; thebeacl'iiabent 'over inwtheposition illilsltrat'cY-iri mesa-sands; p'ro' viinfig miomamental efl'ecfias =we1l ds-sealing the mm' in' the crevice ibetweem the-parts from the weather. In uiding: the 'welt strip towards' 'th'e point; of sewing operatlohsj-it T is desirable for the strip tu'movefi-eely: through: the guides in" order not to interfere with the feed' of tiiworlc' orthe operators: on the stitch forming devices'i- To beniirtne beed 'of the w'elt i'nto th'e positionilIusmam Fig. 2;however, requires application of substantial torceand this force reacting on the wow guidesmay distort the weltor cause" it to Bind toi sucn an extent as toint'e'rrere witnthe reeein 'movenrents or the'worle Also, the'helght orrtne'bead addsrto the' thickhess of 'th'e welt soas torender-the usual welt and-shoe guidmg devices ineifeotive for bringing the bead into alignment with-the insole surface of the shoe upper: Y These": ditil' :\iltiez--;,v added to the necessity otftlpping' the *shoeat-an angle about the sewing point along certain parts 0! the seam; have-in the past-presented a serious obstaclein the way r commercial roduction forshoes constructed in the manner described. V

' According to a' feature offthe present invention; the beaded storm welt strip M is guided loosely through guides l2, l4 formed witli bead receiving slots along their'lowersides" and the edge guide 1011' I Giis located tomctopposite'the point ofsewing operations with a flange" about its= periphery engaging that outer surface of the upper-which is supported by; the edge of the insole 202- The edge guide'roll is' soarranged: that it rotates during ieedlng movements "of? the shoe and after-feeding movements arerterminated; the: rounded :1 upper edge 01" the flange the .roll and: the lower sur- Iaoe of-the presser"- foot squeeze the bead on: the weitinto :thfi'dGSh'Bd lbent oven position; the reac the guide l4 wvhich takes place as the presser foot "is'lifteclif The inner edge of the welt strip being fastened by the stitches 22 to the shoe is held more orle'ssstationary as the presser foot is 1ifted..but= the roll l6, being connected with the presser foot, is lifted with it. The force exerted byrthe roll on'th'e 'b'ead, therefore, ten'd's -to cause the outere'dge of thewelt to bewithdmwn slightly from i betweentheipresser foot andthe' roll: in: a mannerto release the welt fot'easyfeedingmdve m'entz When'i the. presser Io'ot agaimforced against' the work at the e'nd' oflthefeedlng move' ment, the roll again exerts a force tobend over the "head against 'thezmain body of the weit 1 and to bring it' into" .proper alig'nment with theinsole supported surface of theupperc The force of'th'e presser foot during its lifting iand fclampingl action, therefore, rather than the feeding; movement of the work; causes the bead onf'thef-weltrlto' be aligned with theinsolc supportedisurfaceoffthe upperand-to 'be bent over intoproperrposition for sealing the-seam 22; l r To-space'the edge guidei roll from the presser foot so that there willrberoom-fon the: beadton the welt 24; the presser foothas 'a downwardly extending ing-which is supplementediby a'spacer 28 surrounding an' eccentric "shouldered Stl'Jid 3. on which the guide roll rotatesi: T0 gnide tlie edges ofthe welt along the 'under' 'surface ofl the presser foot,- edge guiding bars 32 andriil; which form-a portion of the welt guide It; extend along the. under surface of: and are-screwed to" the presser foot. The edge-guidingbar 34 engages theshoe opposite the work supportingrsuri'aoe of the horn and clamps' itbeyond' the edge ofthe welt against the hem while leaving the welt free to be drawn against the shoe hy=stitches inserted by the needle. Theedge guiding bar 34-thus limits the pressure applied by' the work squeezing portion of the presser foot sees not to distort unduly the bent-over bead on thewelt while holding'the bead firmlyin place; Whendiffer ent widths of welt are employed, 'the' distance between the outer edge guide bar-3T a'ndrthe inner edge guide bar'flwmay be adjusted by loosening the screws which r secure "the"bar"32; in place'and moving it alongslots' 36*in-the presser foot; similarslots being provided in the portion of the bar. forming the welt guide'M. A correspond ing adjustment may -'be*'mad in the position of the'ed'ge guide roll"lfi'by*loosen'ing= anuttf on the" eccentric stud 3flia'n'd' by rotating the stud until the desired position or "the roll is reached.

When sewing a beaded weltwithi thr'ough and through stitches to an American or McKaYwelt shoe; it'is desirable to insert the' stlt'ches closer to the edgeof the insole than isithefusual practice. To enable the stitches" of the" seam' 22 to be the upper slde surface of the work supporting horn 8 is recessed with a roove 38 extending substantially around the upper end. The lower end of the edge guide roll also is shouldered above the level of the work supporting surface on the horn and provided with a portion of reduced diameter to prevent the downwardly extending shoe upper from becoming squeezed between the horn and the edge guide roll.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed is:

effective to squeeze the bead into a bent-over position between the welt and the adjoining insole supported surface of the shoe upper.

2. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type 5 for attaching a welt strip having a central weather 1. A shoe sewing machine of the McKay type for attaching a welt strip having a central weather excluding bead disposed in alignment with the insole supported outer surface of a shoe upper, the combination with a straight hook needle, a rotary shoe supporting horn, a presser foot movable to clamp and to release the shoe, a welt guide on the presser foot comprising a welt pressing surface extending along the lower portion of the foot overlying the horn and oppositely arranged side bars for guiding and supporting the beaded welt, of an edge guide on the presser foot extending beneath the welt pressing surface of the foot into engagement with the insole supported surface of the shoe upper, said edge guide being spaced from the welt pressing surface of the presser foot by an amount substantially in excess of welt thickness to cause the edge guide to engage the bead portion only of the Welt whereby the shoe clamping movement of the presser foot and edge guide mounted thereon is excluding bead disposed in alignment with the insole supported outer surface of a shoe upper, the combination with a straight hook needle, a rotary shoe supporting horn, a presser foot movable to clamp and to release the shoe, a Welt guide on the presser foot comprising a Welt pressing surface extending along the lower portion of the foot overlying the horn and oppositely arranged side bars for guiding and supporting the beaded Welt, of an edge guide roll having a vertical axis mounted on the presser foot opposite the point of needle operations, the periphery of the roll extending beneath the welt pressing surface of the foot into engagement with the insole supported outer surface of the shoe upper and having its upper edge spaced from the welt pressing surface of the presser foot by an amount substantially in excess of welt thickness to cause the roll to engage the bead portion only of the welt whereby the shoe clamping movement of the presser foot and roll mounted thereon is effective to squeeze the bead into a bent-over position between the welt and the adjoinin insole supported surface of the shoe upper.

GUY I-I. GRAHAllE. 

